Donnerstag, 25. April 2013

Kathmandu

Kathmandu! That sounds so far away! So like sherpa, yak and Kashmir wool! And guess what I see mostly here: North Face jackets and Leki walking sticks. It's also true that I'm not staying in "real" Kathmandu, but in the district of Thamel, where all foreign visitors of Nepal seem to congregate. The streets are full of travelers, and all have this maniac smile on their face and in their eyes you read: Trekking! Trekking! Trekking! (Maybe that's also my impression because I see my own eyes reflected in everybody...)
Thamel is trekker's paradise: the streets are plastered with shops full of (fake and real) trekking gear, trekking equipment, maps, and in between them are pleasant cafés at every corner to take a rest from shopping. I spent the last two days stocking up my equipment for my trekking trip, and so seems to do everybody else on the street. In fact, it's difficult to see anybody without trekking pants - on the streets of a 2,5 million-city! That's funny.
My plan is to do the big all-time-classical: The Annapurna circuit. The idea to do it alone, without a guide, was not really fixed until this morning, when I went to get my entrance permit for the region. And at the same time, I had to buy my solotrekker certificate, which states that I acknowledge my full responsibility for everything that might happen to me in the mountains. I admit that I sway between fear and euphoria all the time: this trek is a well beaten path, but it IS a minimum of 17 days long, and it IS a high altitude trekking with a pass well over 5.000 metres, and I HAVE to carry everything I need with me because up there I won't get anything besides accommodation and food. On the other hand, this will be so very amazing that I probably can't even imagine yet!
I've never done such a long trek, and less alone, so this is a challenge for me - but I wouldn't do it if I didn't know from reliable sources that it's perfectly possible to do it without a guide. Anyway, in the teahouse lodges I'm going to meet more than enough other solotrekkers I can join for the more difficult passages, so I'm not going to be alone - I'm just going to be without a guide and a porter.
Tomorrow I start with a busride to Bhulbule and maybe a first 90 minutes' walk. And then I'm up there!

Ah, of course in these mountains there is not much electricity, let alone internet coverage, so I won't be able to blog. The trip may take up to 20 days - afterwards you get a full accounting of everything!


Montag, 22. April 2013

Back from holidays - back to holidays

I know, this has been one biiiig break in my travel journal! But after six weeks in Nuremberg here I am, yet again on my way to the far-away: next stop Nepal.
It feels like coming back from holidays - I had a six-weeks-break from my one-year holidays, so to speak! It's good to see that some things I missed during the last seven months I really did enjoy as much as I imagined: Cooking, cycling, running through the forest, sleeping in my own bed... And some things made me even happier than I thought they would: being so close to my family, living the first days of spring in Nuremberg, learning rock climbing. And then, most of all, there has been each and every moment of my daily life with J., which turned out to be just perfect. Can't wait to come back in summer and make it the real thing!
Even if I feel already a bit out of practice in traveling, I'm glad to notice that I haven't lost the habit of packing my backpack and that it took me only 20 minutes to do it (at 22:00 yesterday. Talk about last minute). There's one important change: instead of running shoes, this time I take hiking boots with me. In the Himalayas, that seems more reasonable. But the decision cost me more than one headache!
If everything goes well I reach Kathmandu tomorrow afternoon; and once there I'll start planning a trip over the Annapurna mountains. Probably I have never in my life done less planning for a trip and so I'm quite curious what I'm going to encounter in Nepal. Well, I have the intention to stay around one week in Kathmandu and hope that gives me time enough to do all the necessary organisation! And to get used to a life on holidays again...